Archaeology & Wildlife of the Pembrokeshire Coast

In the morning we visit the megalithic tomb of Pentre Ifan, the largest and one of the finest dolmens in Wales, dating from around 3500 BCE. This Neolithic site stands in a commanding position and there are some wonderful views towards Carningli (Mount of Angels), Newport Bay and the Nevern Valley. Afterwards, we visit Castell Henllys, an Iron Age promontory fort with extensive defences and large settlement. It was here that an ancient ‘cheveaux-de-frise’ was found, a portable barrier of spikes used to slow attackers at the point where they were in sling shot range. Excavations here have revealed detailed information about the fort and its occupants and a number of roundhouses and granary store have been recreated on the spot of the original Iron Age buildings. In the afternoon, we walk up to the site of Garn Fawr, a coastal hillfort and enclosure system with breath-taking views of the coast and the lighthouse at Strumble Head. Many of the stones have taken for use elsewhere but it is possible to make out much of the layout of the ramparts.

Hotel: Hotel in Haverfordwest

Today, weather and tide permitting, we will take a boat trip through some of the richest water for wildlife off the coast of the British Isles. The strong tidal currents in the waters around Pembrokeshire draw in plankton, fish, jellyfish and squid in large numbers which in turn attracts larger marine animals that would normally only be seen in the open ocean. Among those sighted regularly are harbour porpoise, common, bottlenose and Risso’s dolphin. Skomer & Skokholm islands are world renowned for their colonies of sea birds – puffins, guillemots, manx shearwaters and razorbills. Atlantic grey seals, porpoise and gannets are often seen in the tidal races around these islands. 

In the afternoon we visit Carew Castle and Tidal Mill. From an Iron Age fort to an Elizabethan stronghold, the site’s history spans some 2000 years. Here you will also find the only restored tidal mill in Wales. Tide mills once dotted the coasts and estuaries for several centuries until more efficient alternatives all but wiped them off the map and this is rare opportunity to visit one of the five that remain.

Hotel: Hotel in Haverfordwest

We take a walk in and around the lovely harbour of Solva, a small harbour town steeped in maritime history and during the 18^th and 19^th centuries, one of the busiest trading ports in Pembrokeshire. Limestone was transported here by flat bottomed boats and heated in kilns to create quicklime which was used on local fields to counteract the natural acidity of the soil. The 200-year-old kilns remain and can be seen at the water’s edge. From Solva, we walk up to the Iron Age fort which stands on the end of the Gribin. This pear-shaped enclosure, set across a narrow ridge above the inlet to Solva Harbour is set in a superb defensive position and the views over Green Scar Rock and St. Bride’s Bay are fabulous.

This afternoon we visit St. David’s Cathedral, constructed on one of Britain’s most ancient Christian sites. Here a monastic community was founded by Dewi (David is the Norman form of his name), Abbot of Menevia in the 6^th century and despite Viking raids, survived and thrived as an important centre for training missionaries – it was from here that St. Patrick set off for Ireland. The cathedral we see today dates from the 11^th century and was recognised as a place of pilgrimage in 1123. It has undergone many alterations and innovations over the centuries but the cathedral and the site on which is stands hold a special kind of reverence that is unique to Wales. 

Hotel: Hotel in Haverfordwest

Today is spent walking the area first identified as the source of the bluestones of Stonehenge in 1923. We start with an exploration at Gors Fawr, the sole surviving stone circle in the county. It stands amongst moorland in the shadow of the Preselis and probably looks much the same today as did in the late Neolithic period. There are 16 stones of spotted dolorite which were sourced from the carn Meini outcrop which can be seen to the south-west. From here we walk to Croesmihangel, site of an excavated round barrow and ancient village and continue our walk to the early Iron Age hill fort of Foel Drigarn with a trilogy of burial cairns contained within rings of ramparts and ditches. From here there are 360-degree panoramas over the surrounding countryside and towards the coast.

After a packed lunch we spend the afternoon exploring Carn Meini, first identified in recent years using increasingly sophisticated methods, as the quarry from which the blue stones of Stonehenge were taken. Survey work identified here or four abandoned stones below the Carn which all show signs of quarrying along one side. From this and other evidence found on site, it appears that blocks were being worked free from the outcrops and dragged to the lower ground. Finally, we visit Waun Mawn subject of a recent archaeological project directed by Mike Parker Pearson. These excavations confirm that Stonehenge’s bluestones were erected first as a stone circle at Waun Mawn before being later dismantled and moved to Salisbury Plain rather than being brought directly from their quarries.

Hotel: Hotel in Haverfordwest

We say farewell to Pembrokeshire and commence our independent onward journeys.