Northern Peru

We head south this morning to the outskirts of the city, where we visit Pachacamac Archaeological Site. This site was the religious pilgrimage centre of coastal Peru for nearly 1200 years, even the Incas chose to adopt it, rather than challenge it. After our visit here, we head to the newly opened, expansive world class National Museum to pore over the top artefacts from around the region.

Hotel: Casa Andina Premium Miraflores, Lima

We take a flight this morning to near tropical Jaen, and then drive up to Chachapoyas following the Utcubamba river valley. It’s a long drive on winding, twisting roads as we ascend to 2350m (7700 ft – low by Andean standards!) into the cloud forests. Chachapoyas is described by many as ‘Peru’s best kept secret’ and is a laid back, understated town. We rest here this afternoon to acclimatise to the altitude.

Hotel: Casa Hacienda Achamaqui, Chachapoyas

Nicknamed the Machu Picchu of the North, Kuélap is our first destination today. The fortress perches on the side of a steep ravine, surrounded by a colossal wall 600m (2000ft) long and 20m (65ft) tall. Until recently access to the site was very difficult but using the new French built cable car it now takes just 20 minutes to cross the ravine. Within the wall there are numerous houses with circular designs and decorative friezes. After lunch we return to Chachapoyas itself for a walk in this charming provincial capital in a region even most Peruvians don’t get to.

Hotel: Casa Hacienda Achamaqui, Chachapoyas

We travel to Leymebamba to visit the community museum notable for its collection of preserved Chachapoyas mummies. These were recovered during a 1997 excavation of Llaqtacocha, a Chachapoya settlement on the banks of the Lake of the Condors. The Chachapoya were skilled embalmers and viewing these lifelike figures can be a little unnerving. There are over 200 mummies alongside various objects, including ceramics, textiles, feathers and ‘quipuas’ an Inca recording system using knotted string.

Hotel: Casa Hacienda Achamaqui, Chachapoyas

A long drive is ahead of us today, as we leave the mountains and return to the coast. Throughout the journey we can watch the landscape change from cloud-draped mountains to desert, while also crossing the Porculla Pass - the lowest crossing in the Andes.

Hotel: Casa Andina Select, Chiclayo

We explore the A.D. 0-700 Moche culture today famous for its startling, realistic art in metal and pottery. Starting at the Huaca Rajada (fissured pyramid) we discover the royal tombs of the Sipán branch of the Moche. Discovered in 1987 by a local archaeologist, a succession of high-ranking warrior-priests was buried here along with ritual objects and attendants. Later we visit the stunning Royal Tombs Museum (sometimes argued to be the jewel of New World museums), where we can see the dazzling gold, silver, copper, ceramic and shell finds from the site.

Hotel: Casa Andina Select, Chiclayo

Our visit today is to the sprawling Túcume site containing no less than 25 pyramids. We will explore some of the pyramids, and also spend some time in the onsite museum. Next, we head to the tropical thorn forest of Pomac, location of the Sicán Archaeological Complex, whose pyramids contained gold-laden burials of pre-Inca rulers, rich enough to finance the first bulldozer imported to Peru, brought in to loot the deep tombs! Finally, we head to the Sicán National Museum to see some of these dazzling treasures.

Hotel: Casa Andina Select, Chiclayo

Saying goodbye to Chiclayo we head further south to Trujillo. En route we will stop at El Brujo Pyramid site, home to the Lady of Cao, an unusual young female leader whose mummified body shows tattooing and was accompanied by military artefacts usually associated with men. From Brujo we will view other major mounds of the complex, including Huaca Prieta, a deep shell mound with perhaps the earliest evidence of humans in Peru. After exploring the Brujo Museum we will continue on to Trujillo.

Hotel: Costa Del Sol Trujillo Centro, Trujillo

Thought to have once been an administrative centre for the A.D. 0-700 Moche, the site of Moche includes the Pyramid of the Sun, standing 43m high. The smaller Pyramid of the Moon was more ceremonial in nature, and we’ll view its exceptionally well preserved and colourful graphic adobe murals. We spend all day discovering this magnificent site and its highly didactic museum.

Hotel: Costa Del Sol Trujillo Centro, Trujillo

Off to the other side of Trujillo, we today visit Chan Chan, capital city of the A.D. 1100-1400 Chimu Empire. This mighty place was one of the largest Pre-Colombian cities in South America, covering many square kilometres. We explore the architecture here, visiting ceremonial squares, palaces and houses, some of which are elaborately decorated with low relief mud murals. This afternoon we will explore the centre of Trujillo.

Hotel: Costa Del Sol Trujillo Centro, Trujillo

It’s another long but beautiful drive today as we head back into the mountains. Heading south on the coastal Panamerican highway we will pause at the early site of Cerro Sechín (about 2000 B.C) to enjoy the extraordinary if macabre artwork on the walls of the temple. We will then climb the westernmost chain of the Andes, going eastwards to the highland valley regional capital of Huaraz.

Hotel: Andino Club Hotel, Huaraz

Today is gentle one, as we acclimatise once again to the altitude of 3100m (10,200 ft) below the peaks of the alpinist’s beloved Cordillera Blanca. We pay a visit to nearby Wilcahuaín, a mortuary and ritual centre from the first few centuries AD. Later we will visit the Ancash Museum in Huaraz.

Hotel: Andino Club Hotel, Huaraz

Today we cross another mountain chain to Chavín de Huántar, stopping en route at the glacial Lake Querococha. On arrival, we will delve right away into this fascinating Formative (1300-500 B.C.) World Heritage site. Professor John Rick, has been excavating this site for 27 years, exploring its mysterious underground passageways and canals, and discovering more of its fantastic art in stone, bone, and pottery. A high point will be a visit to the Lanzón, a five-metre-high carved monolith that is arguably the only primary religious idol of the New World still in its original condition and location, deep in the passageways of the site. Later we will visit the Chavin National Museum, loaded with art and artefacts few are privileged to see.

Hotel: Hostal Chavin Turistico, Chavin de Huantar

We spend part of this morning finishing our visit to the site, before we begin our journey over the cordilleras and down to sea level again. This evening we will stop in La Esperanza, just a short drive from Caral, our first stop tomorrow morning. 

Hotel: La Empedrada Lodge, La Esperanza

It’s the final leg of travelling today as we return along the coast to Lima. Shortly after leaving La Esperanza we make our final stop in the late preceramic (3500-1800 B.C.) precocious monumental site of Caral, argued by some to have been the New World’s oldest city. The remains here include pyramids, temples and altars distributed abundantly over a coastal desert landscape. Then we head to Lima for our last evening together.

Hotel: Costa Del Sol Wyndham Lima Airport, Lima

We say goodbye to Peru this morning and make our independent onward journeys.