Walking Hadrian’s Wall

This morning we drive to Bowness-on-Solway where our walk begins. We wander along the shore of the Solway Firth toward Burgh-by-Sands. The day ends with a visit to Tullie House Museum in Carlisle. (c 4.5 miles)

We start at Lanercost Priory, built from stone taken from Hadrian’s Wall, and then stroll via Haytongate, Hare Hill and the Banks Turret to Birdoswald. Later, we explore Roman remains at Birdoswald fort. An auxiliary unit of Dacians (from modern Romania) formed the garrison. (c 5 miles).

We return to Birdoswald and begin walking towards Thirlwell along the longest unbroken section of Hadrian’s Wall. After a short drive we stop at Carvoran to explore the notable collections at the Roman Army Museum. We continue towards Burnhead to view the quarry. (c 6 miles)

We lace up our boots and visit the mithraeum at Carrawburgh, our starting point for today. It is thought that this elegant temple was built by Roman soldiers in around 200 AD, as its three altars, dedicated to the bull-slaying god Mithras, were all inscribed from commanding officers. A nymphaeum, or natural grotto, was also located here, though no visible traces remain.

This afternoon we stride out to Chesters on the bank of the North Tyne River, enjoying the fresh country air and changing views. At Chesters we are rewarded with a visit to the most complete Roman cavalry fort in the country, Cilurnum. The site, maintained by English Heritage, features an extensive collection of artefacts, a fine bath building and officers’ quarters. (c 6 miles)

This morning, we drive out to Heavenfield and trek to Port Gate, the site of a fortified gateway controlling traffic along Dere Street, the Roman road that ran north to the Firth of Forth. Following lunch, a drive to Corbridge takes us to a once vibrant Roman town and major military depot. We view artefacts at the museum. We then walk along the River Tyne to Corbridge, to see the preserved Roman bridge abutment and reused Roman masonry in the Anglo-Saxon church. (c 5 miles)

Starting our tour at Whittle Dene Reservoir this morning, we wander to Heddon-on-the-Wall, where we see a well-preserved stretch of the wall. This substantial structure demonstrates how thick the wall was meant to be, showing it at its original, planned width of two meters. A medieval kiln and circular chambers are also visible here.

Later we view the surviving wall that stretches around Denton, before continuing to the Temple at Benwell, dedicated to the local god Antenociticus, a deity thought to have been involved with military affairs. With the majority of our leg-work now behind us, tonight we kick off our hiking gear and enjoy a well-earned dinner to mark the last night of our holiday with the group. (c 4.5 mile walk)

Our journey from coast to coast is almost at an end. We enjoy a gentle walk from Scotswood to the remains of the Roman fort at Newcastle, on the banks of the River Tyne. From there we board a metro to the Great North Museum, which was built for Northumbria’s natural history collection in 1884. Alongside fantastic fossil galleries and displays about the living planet we find a detailed Hadrian’s Wall exhibition, where treasures and stories abound.

Our final destination is Wallsend, where we visit the site of Segedunum, the most completely excavated fort on Hadrian’s Wall, which once housed troops from mainland North Europe. An interactive museum reveals what life would have been like for a cavalry officer at the height of the garrison’s powers. The adventure comes to an end at the seaside town of South Shields, and from here we make our independent onward journeys. (3 mile walk)